Overview
Mount Makalu, standing at a towering 8,485 meters (27,838 feet), is the fifth-highest peak in the world. The Makalu Expedition offers an unparalleled adventure for experienced climbers. Nestled in the heart of the Himalayas, it forms the natural boundary between Nepal and China. Known for its striking pyramid shape and remote, untouched terrain. The region is also home to the serene Barun Valley, where pristine waterfalls cascade into deep gorges, and diverse ecosystems thrive. With a rich cultural heritage, the valley is inhabited by the resilient Sherpa and Kirat communities, offering an opportunity for visitors to experience local traditions while embarking on a journey to the summit.
First summited on May 15, 1955, by the French team of Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy, Makalu remains one of the most challenging yet rewarding climbs in the world, accessed primarily through its Northeast Ridge. For those seeking a journey through both rugged wilderness and cultural discovery, the Makalu Expedition is the ultimate Himalayan challenge.
Best Time to Climb Makalu
The ideal seasons for a Makalu expedition are:
- Spring (April–May) – More stable weather, milder temperatures, and a better chance for a successful summit.
- Autumn (Late September–October) – Clear skies and cooler air after the monsoon make for stunning views and quieter camps.
Difficulty & Experience Required
Makalu is considered one of the most difficult 8000m peaks, especially near the summit, which requires technical ice and rock climbing skills. Climbers must have:
- Prior experience on at least one 7,000m+ or 8,000m peak
- Advanced mountaineering knowledge (fixed lines, crampons, ascenders, rappelling)
- High-altitude fitness and mental resilience
Route & Climbing Strategy
Your journey begins in Kathmandu, followed by a scenic trek through beautiful villages and valleys in eastern Nepal. After reaching Makalu Base Camp (4,870m), we’ll spend several days acclimatizing and rotating between high camps:
- Camp I (6,050m) – A mix of glacier travel and steep terrain.
- Camp II (6,700m) – More technical terrain with snow and rock sections.
- Camp III (7,300m) – High on the mountain, positioned for a final summit push.
- Summit Day (8,485m) – Expect a demanding ascent across exposed ridges and steep ice—truly a test of your skills and endurance.
Why Climb with Dream Himalayas Trek and Expedition?
- Highly experienced and certified guides & Sherpas
- Complete expedition logistics, from Kathmandu to summit and return
- Comprehensive safety protocols, medical support, and emergency evacuation options
- Quality food, tents, and gear at all camps
- Ethical treatment of staff and eco-conscious climbing practices
Frequently Asked Questions about Makalu Expedition-50 Days
1. How can I get a visa to travel to Nepal?
You will need a valid visa to enter Nepal. You can obtain a visa from a Nepalese embassy or consulate in your home country, or you can get a visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu or other official entry points.
Please ensure your passport is valid beyond the duration of the expedition, and bring passport-size photos for the visa process. You're responsible for fulfilling all visa requirements.
2. Do I need to apply for my climbing permits?
No. Dream Himalaya will handle all climbing permits, including the Makalu climbing permit, Makalu Barun National Park Entry, and local government fees on your behalf.
3. Will I need to arrange my insurance?
Yes. You must arrange your own travel and climbing insurance. It should cover high-altitude climbing, emergency evacuation (including helicopter), medical expenses, and trip cancellations.
4. How much does it cost for guiding services?
The cost of guiding services is included in the expedition package. You will have an experienced IFMGA/UIAGM-certified guide and a 1:1 Sherpa support ratio, fully equipped and insured.
5. What is the best time of year to climb Makalu?
The best climbing seasons are:
- Spring (April to early June)
- Autumn (late September to November)
These periods offer stable weather, clearer skies, and favorable climbing conditions.
6. What fitness level is required for climbing Makalu?
Makalu is a technical 8000m+ peak and requires excellent physical fitness, cardiovascular endurance, and prior high-altitude mountaineering experience (preferably on peaks above 6000–7000m).
7. How difficult is it to climb Makalu?
Makalu is considered one of the most challenging 8000-meter peaks, due to:
- Technical rock/ice sections
- Steep ridges
- Unpredictable weather
It's suited for experienced climbers with previous expedition-level experience.
8. What will be the condition of accommodation while climbing?
- In Kathmandu: 4-star hotel accommodation (single room, B&B).
- During trek: Local lodges/tea houses or tented camps.
- At Base Camp: Comfortable private tents, dining tents, toilets, and shower tents.
- High Camps: Shared mountain tents with essential gear provided.
9. Is communication with the home country possible while on an expedition?
Yes. Dream Himalaya provides:
- Satellite phone (for emergencies; usage charges apply)
- Walkie-talkies for internal communication
- Internet connection at Base Camp (available at extra cost)
10. What equipment will be provided during the expedition?
Included:
- Base Camp tents and facilities
- High-altitude tents (2 per tent)
- Group climbing gear: ropes, cooking sets, EPI gas
- Oxygen cylinders, masks, and regulators
- Climbing gear support by Sherpas to high camps
Personal climbing gear must be brought by the climber.
11. Will the expedition cost include travel?
Yes. The package includes:
- Kathmandu–Tumlingtar roundtrip flights
- Ground transportation to/from trekking start point
- Porters and cargo transfer of equipment to Base Camp
International airfare is not included.
12. What food will be served during the expedition?
- Kathmandu: Breakfast in hotel
- Trekking & Base Camp: 3 meals daily including fresh vegetables, meat, juice, fruits, tea/coffee
- High Camps: High-calorie, dehydrated expedition meals
- Special dietary needs can be arranged upon request.
13. How long does it take to climb Makalu?
The entire expedition typically takes around 6–7 weeks (42–50 days). This includes:
- Arrival & preparation
- Trekking to Base Camp (7–10 days)
- Acclimatization & climbing rotations
- Summit push & descent
- Return to Kathmandu
