Lhotse Expedition - 57 Days

Lhotse Expedition, a mountain standing at 8,516 meters (27,940 feet), is the fourth-highest mountain in the world and is closely linked to Mount Everest. The Lhotse climbing route follows the […]

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57 Days
15 - 20 KM Per Day
Hotel,Tea House,Camping
Start from Kathmandu and End to Kathmandu
Min 1 to Max 10 Pax in a group
challenging

Highlights

  • Summiting Lhotse (8,516 meters): Conquer the world’s fourth-highest peak with stunning views of the Himalayas.

  • Trekking through the Khumbu Valley: Experience breathtaking landscapes while passing through iconic villages like Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Lobuche.

  • Base Camp Experience: Enjoy the tranquility of Lhotse Base Camp, surrounded by majestic views of the Lhotse face and glaciers.

  • Acclimatization Rotations: Multiple climbs to higher camps (Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3) help you acclimatize to the altitude for a safer summit attempt.

  • Spectacular Views from South Col: From South Col (Camp 4), take in incredible views of the Khumbu Icefall and nearby peaks before the final push.

  • Technical Climbing: Cross the Khumbu Icefall, navigate steep sections near Camp 2 and Camp 3, and test your mountaineering skills.

  • Sherpa Hospitality: Experience the warmth and friendliness of the Sherpa people, with expert guidance throughout the journey.

  • Support from Expert Team: Rely on experienced Sherpa guides and a skilled team for a well-supported and safe ascent.

  • Physical and Mental Challenge: Push your limits physically and mentally during this demanding 57-day expedition.

  • Stunning Views of Mount Everest: Enjoy unmatched views of Everest from the summit of Lhotse, providing an unforgettable perspective of the world's tallest peak.

Overview

Lhotse Expedition, a mountain standing at 8,516 meters (27,940 feet), is the fourth-highest mountain in the world and is closely linked to Mount Everest. The Lhotse climbing route follows the same path as Everest’s South Col route, including the famous Lhotse Face, before diverging near Geneva Spur into a steep couloir leading to the summit.

Lhotse’s Three Summits: A Unique Climbing Experience

Lhotse has three notable summits:

  • Lhotse Main (8,516m) – The highest point, first climbed in 1956.
  • Lhotse Middle/East (8,413m) – Climbed for the first time in 2001.
  • Lhotse Shar (8,383m) – The lowest of the three summits.

The Lhotse Couloir, an 80-degree ice gully, is the most challenging section of the climb. It requires technical skills to navigate the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur, and climbers must be cautious of falling ice and sudden snowfall.

Why Choose a Lhotse Expedition?

Climbing Lhotse is an excellent alternative to Everest, offering a similar challenge at a fraction of the cost due to lower permit fees. Despite often being overshadowed by its neighbor, Lhotse’s dramatic South Face—a 3.2 km vertical rise over just 2.25 km—makes it one of the steepest and most demanding faces in the world.

While Lhotse can be climbed as a standalone expedition, some climbers also summit it as an add-on to their Everest ascent via the South Col connection.

Best Seasons for Lhotse Expedition

  1. Spring (March to May):
    • This is the most popular season for Lhotse expeditions.
    • The weather is stable, with clear skies and milder temperatures.
    • The spring season offers the best conditions for high-altitude climbing, including access to the Khumbu Icefall and higher camps.
  2. Autumn (September to November):
    • After the monsoon season, the weather clears up, offering stable conditions for climbing.
    • Autumn brings crisp air and clear skies, providing excellent views of the surrounding peaks, including Mount Everest and Makalu.
    • This season is ideal for avoiding the heavy snowfall and freezing temperatures of winter.

Both spring and autumn provide the best opportunities for a successful and safe Lhotse expedition, with the right balance of weather, visibility, and climbing conditions.

Challenges During Lhotse Expedition

  1. Altitude and Altitude Sickness:
    • Lhotse’s summit sits at 8,516 meters, which increases the risk of altitude sickness. Even with proper acclimatization, climbers may experience headaches, dizziness, and nausea as they ascend.
  2. Extreme Weather Conditions:
    • The weather on Lhotse can be unpredictable. Harsh winds, freezing temperatures, and sudden storms can make the climb extremely challenging, especially at higher altitudes.
  3. Technical Climbing Sections:
    • The climb involves several technical challenges, including crossing the Khumbu Icefall, which is known for its crevasses and unstable ice blocks. Navigating these sections requires expert climbing skills.
  4. Physical Endurance:
    • The 57-day expedition is physically demanding. The long days of trekking and the strenuous climb to the summit will test your strength, stamina, and mental endurance.
  5. Crevasse and Icefall Crossing:
    • Crossing the Khumbu Icefall can be dangerous due to shifting ice and deep crevasses. The route often changes, and constant vigilance is needed to ensure safety.
  6. Lack of Oxygen at High Altitudes:
  7. Limited Rescue Options:
    • Due to the remote location of the mountain, if anything goes wrong, the options for quick rescues are limited. Evacuations can be difficult and take time, especially in bad weather.
  8. Mental Fatigue:
    • The expedition takes a toll not just on your body, but also your mind. The long duration, the isolation, and the challenges can lead to mental fatigue, requiring strong focus and perseverance to push through.
  9. Logistical Challenges:
    • Managing supplies, setting up camps, and dealing with the harsh environment require careful planning and execution. This makes logistics a significant challenge throughout the expedition.
  10. Risk of Avalanches:
    • The Himalayas are known for their avalanches, particularly in regions like the Khumbu Icefall. Climbers need to stay alert to avoid areas with high avalanche risk, particularly in the spring when the snow starts melting.

Climbing Lhotse is an extraordinary challenge that demands a combination of technical skills, physical strength, and mental resilience. With proper preparation and guidance, however, these challenges can be overcome.

Lhotse Expedition Overview

  • Duration: 56 days
  • Starting/Ending Point: Kathmandu, Nepal
  • Key Stops: Namche Bazaar, Tengboche Monastery, Everest Base Camp
  • Trekking Route: Through the Khumbu Icefall, following the Everest route until above the Yellow Band, then diverging right toward Lhotse’s summit.

The trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) is an adventure in itself, offering breathtaking views of the Himalayas, glaciers, and dense forests.

Itinerary

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Day 01

Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m) – Welcome to Nepal!

Altitude 1400
Your journey begins with your arrival in Kathmandu, the vibrant capital of Nepal. A representative will greet you at the airport and transfer you to your hotel. In the evening, enjoy a welcome dinner and an expedition briefing.
Day 02

Rest Day in Kathmandu – Expedition Briefing & Preparation

Take the day to rest, explore Kathmandu, and make final preparations for the climb. Attend a detailed expedition briefing where your climbing permits, gear, and logistics will be finalized. You may also visit key heritage sites like Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), Pashupatinath, or Boudhanath Stupa.
Day 03

Flight to Lukla (2,800m) & Trek to Phakding

Duration [3-4 hours]
Altitude 2,610
A thrilling scenic flight takes you to Lukla, the gateway to Everest. From here, you begin your trek, descending toward Phakding, a beautiful village along the Dudh Koshi River.
Day 04

Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Duration [6-7 hours]
Altitude (3,440m)
Following the river valley, cross several suspension bridges, including the famous Hillary Suspension Bridge. A challenging climb through dense pine forests leads to Namche Bazaar, the commercial hub of the Khumbu region, with breathtaking views of Everest and Lhotse.
Day 05-07

Acclimatization in Namche Bazaar

Spend three crucial days acclimatizing to the altitude. Activities include: Short hikes to Everest View Hotel and Khumjung Village. Exploring Namche’s bustling market, museums, and bakeries. Visiting the Tenzing Norgay Memorial and Sagarmatha National Park Museum.
Day 08

Trek from Namche to Dingboche

Duration 6-7 hours
Altitude 4,410m
The trail passes Tengboche Monastery, one of the most sacred monasteries in the region. After crossing Imja Valley, you reach Dingboche, surrounded by stunning views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Island Peak.
Day 09

Trek from Dingboche to Lobuche

Duration 5-6 hours
Altitude 4,930m
The route gradually ascends through Thukla Pass, where you pass memorials dedicated to fallen climbers. A challenging trek brings you to Lobuche, a small settlement beneath the towering Khumbu Glacier.
Day 10

Trek from Lobuche to Everest Base Camp

Duration 7-8 hours
Altitude 5,364m
Today is one of the highlights of the expedition as you reach Everest Base Camp (EBC). Walk along the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, passing the last settlement at Gorakshep before reaching EBC, your home for the next several weeks.
Day 11-50

Climbing Period – Lhotse Summit (8,516m) & Return to Base Camp

Altitude 8,516m
Your expedition begins with training, acclimatization, and multiple rotations to higher camps before making the final summit push. The route follows: Base Camp to Camp 1 (6,065m) – Crossing Khumbu Icefall Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6,400m) – Western Cwm glacier traverse Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7,200m) – Lhotse Face climb Camp 3 to Camp 4 (7,850m) – Geneva Spur section Summit Push (8,516m) – Climbing through the Lhotse Couloir After a successful summit, climbers return to Base Camp for rest and recovery.
Day 51

Cleaning Up Base Camp

A day dedicated to environmental responsibility, ensuring all waste and climbing gear are properly managed before departure.
Day 52

Trek from Base Camp to Pheriche (4,371m) [6-7 hours]

Duration 6-7 hours
Altitude 4,371m
Retrace your steps through Lobuche and Thukla Pass, descending to Pheriche, a beautiful village with stunning views of the Himalayas.
Day 53

Trek from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar

Duration 6-7 hours
A long descent through rhododendron forests and Sherpa villages brings you back to Namche, where you can enjoy hot showers, coffee, and celebratory moments.
Day 54

Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla

Duration 6-7 hours
Your final trekking day takes you back to Lukla, where you can reflect on your Lhotse adventure with your team.
Day 55

Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel

Take an early morning flight back to Kathmandu, where you can relax in a comfortable hotel and enjoy a celebratory dinner.
Day 56

Leisure Day in Kathmandu

A well-earned rest day! Explore Thamel, UNESCO heritage sites, and local markets, or opt for a massage or spa treatment.
Day 57

Final Departure – Transfer to International Airport

Your incredible Lhotse Expedition comes to an end. A representative will drop you off at Tribhuvan International Airport for your onward journey.

Inclusions

What's included

  • Arrival & Departure: Pick-up and drop-off service between the airport and hotel.
  • Accommodation: 4 nights at a deluxe hotel in Kathmandu with Bed & Breakfast in a double room.
  • Welcome Dinner: One welcome dinner at a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with office staff.
  • Domestic Transportation: Round-trip Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu flights, including airport taxes.
  • Permits & Fees: Lhotse Expedition Permit, Summit Route Permit, Ice Fall Route, National Park & TIMS permit fees.
  • Food & Lodging: 3 meals per day during trekking and at Basecamp for both members and staff.
  • Porters: Porters to carry gear up to and from Basecamp.
  • Farewell Dinner: A warm farewell dinner at a standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Nepalese staff.
  • Medical Facilities: Basecamp medical checkup facilities.
  • Bakery Service: Bakery service available at Basecamp.
  • Generator: 1 generator at Basecamp for use with computers and electronic devices.
  • Weather Forecast: Weather forecasts from Meteotest, Bern (Switzerland) for the duration of the expedition.
  • Hot Drinking Water: Hot drinking water provided as needed.
  • Oxygen for Lhotse: 3 oxygen cylinders for each member and 2 for each High-Altitude Sherpa. Extra oxygen stored at Basecamp for emergencies.
  • Mask & Regulator: 1 set of top-out mask for each member and Sherpa.
  • High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: 1 climbing Sherpa per member.

What's not included

  • International Airfare: Flights to and from Kathmandu.
  • Nepalese Visa: Visa charges for entry into Nepal.
  • Extra Night in Kathmandu: Accommodation charges if you arrive early or depart late, or return early from the expedition.
  • Insurance: Travel, high-altitude, accident, medical, and emergency evacuation insurance.
  • Sherpa Summit Bonus: Mandatory minimum of USD 1,500 for Sherpa summit bonus.
  • Tips: Gratuities for Basecamp staff and porters.
  • Personal Climbing Equipment: Full set of member’s personal climbing gear and clothing.
  • Rescue Evacuation: Costs for emergency rescue evacuation and any personal expenses.
  • Other Personal Items: Any additional items not listed under the "Price Includes" section.

Frequently Asked Questions about Lhotse Expedition - 57 Days

1.How dangerous is the Lhotse climb?

Like any 8,000m peak, Lhotse presents significant risks, including avalanches, extreme cold, altitude sickness, and technical rock/ice climbing challenges. Proper preparation, training, and experienced guides are essential for safety.

2.Can I attempt Lhotse without climbing Everest?

Absolutely! While Lhotse and Everest share much of the same route up to Camp 3, climbers can choose to ascend Lhotse independently. However, some mountaineers attempt both peaks in the same expedition.

3.What happens if I get injured or sick during the climb?

Medical emergencies are taken seriously. Helicopter evacuations are available in the Everest region, but climbers must have comprehensive travel insurance covering high-altitude rescues. Having an experienced expedition team and emergency plan is crucial.

4.Do I need prior mountaineering experience to climb Lhotse?

Yes, Lhotse requires extensive high-altitude experience. Climbers should have prior expeditions on 6,000m+ peaks, technical rock and ice climbing skills, and the ability to endure long-duration expeditions.

5.How difficult is climbing Lhotse compared to Mount Everest?

Lhotse is slightly less difficult than Mount Everest but remains a highly demanding climb. Its steep sections, technical ice walls, and exposure to extreme altitude require advanced mountaineering skills and experience.

6.What permits are required to climb Lhotse?

A climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is mandatory. These can be obtained through government-registered trekking agencies or mountaineering organizations.

7.When is the best time to climb Lhotse?

The most favorable climbing seasons are spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October). These periods offer more stable weather, clearer skies, and safer climbing conditions.

8.Is there an age limit for climbing Lhotse?

There are no strict age restrictions, but climbers must be in top physical condition and have adequate experience in high-altitude mountaineering. Young and elderly climbers should consult with experts before attempting the climb.

9.How long does it take to climb Lhotse?

The expedition typically lasts around 6 to 8 weeks, with 2-3 weeks dedicated to acclimatization and the summit push from base camp. Weather conditions and individual fitness levels can affect the duration.

10.What is the cost of a Lhotse expedition?

The cost of climbing Lhotse varies depending on factors like logistics, guide services, permits, and expedition support. On average, it ranges between $40,000 and $70,000 or more.

Dream Himalayas Illustration