Nuptse Expedition - 46 Days

Rising dramatically beside Everest and Lhotse, the Nuptse Expedition offers climbers one of the most striking and technically demanding 7000-meter peaks in the Himalayas—Mount Nuptse (7,864m). Its name, derived from […]

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46 Days
15 - 20 KM Per Day
Hotel,Tea House,Camping
Start from Kathmandu and End to Kathmandu
Min 1 to Max 10 Pax in a group
challenging

Highlights

  • Summit one of the most technically challenging 7000-meter peaks in the Himalayas

  • Incredible views of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, and the entire Khumbu range

  • Traverse the famous Khumbu Icefall and climb via the steep North Face of Nuptse

  • Camp 2 shared with Everest and Lhotse expeditions, offering a high-altitude mountaineering experience

  • Experienced Sherpa climbing guides and expedition support team throughout the ascent

  • Fly into Lukla and trek through the legendary Everest Base Camp route

  • Stay in traditional Sherpa villages like Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Dingboche

  • Full logistical support including high-altitude tents, fixed ropes, food, and oxygen backup

  • Ideal climb for experienced mountaineers seeking a serious challenge before 8000-meter peaks

  • Comprehensive acclimatization schedule with time for preparation and adaptation

Overview

Rising dramatically beside Everest and Lhotse, the Nuptse Expedition offers climbers one of the most striking and technically demanding 7000-meter peaks in the Himalayas—Mount Nuptse (7,864m). Its name, derived from the Sherpa words “Nup” (west) and “Tse” (peak), aptly captures its position west of Lhotse and south of the famed Western Cwm. Often mistaken for Lhotse from afar, Nuptse forms a formidable ridge with seven prominent sub-summits—all soaring above 7,500 meters.

The mountain is not only renowned for its aesthetic symmetry but also for its steep, knife-edged ridgelines and technical climbing challenges. The route along the north face is particularly perilous, featuring vertical rock, exposed snow slopes, and corniced ridges—making the summit push a true alpinist’s test. First conquered in 1961 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi, Nuptse Expedition remains a dream climb for seasoned mountaineers seeking a less-traveled but equally prestigious peak in the Everest region.

Our Nuptse expedition begins in Kathmandu with gear checks and official briefings, followed by a scenic flight to Lukla. From there, we trek through the legendary Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp, acclimatizing along the way. The ascent includes navigating the Khumbu Icefall, establishing high camps, and making the final summit attempt via the demanding central spur of the north face.

Best Time for Nuptse Expedition

The best time to climb Mount Nuptse (7,861m)—a technically demanding and majestic peak near Everest—is during the pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn) seasons:

1. Spring Season (April to May)

Most Preferred Time for Climbing

  • Weather: Stable and clear with moderate temperatures.
  • Visibility: Excellent views of Everest, Lhotse, and surrounding Khumbu peaks.
  • Snow Conditions: Fresh but manageable snowpack, ideal for technical climbing.
  • Crowd: Popular season; Base Camps (Everest and Nuptse) are active, ensuring better logistical support.

Best summit windows typically fall between late April and mid-May.

2. Autumn Season (Late September to October)

Second-Best Option

  • Weather: Dry, crisp, and clear after the monsoon; favorable for high-altitude climbs.
  • Visibility: Incredible clarity with breathtaking views.
  • Crowd: Fewer climbers than in spring, allowing for a more peaceful experience.

Optimal summit conditions usually occur from late September to mid-October.

Itinerary

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Day 01

Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m)

Day 02

Kathmandu – Expedition Briefing & Preparation Day

Day 03

Fly to Lukla (2,860m) & Trek to Phakding (2,610m)

Day 04

Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)

Day 05

Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar

Day 06

Trek to Debuche (3,820m)

Day 07

Trek to Dingboche (4,410m)

Day 08

Trek to Lobuche (4,940m)

Day 09

Trek to Everest Base Camp (5,364m)

Day 10-39

Climbing Period – Nuptse Summit (7,861m)

Day 40

Base Camp Clean-up Day

Day 41

Trek to Pheriche (4,371m)

Day 42

Trek to Namche Bazaar

Day 43

Trek to Lukla

Day 44

Fly to Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel

Day 45

Leisure Day in Kathmandu

Day 46

Final Departure from Kathmandu

Inclusions

What's included

  • Airport transfers by private vehicle in Kathmandu (arrival and departure)

  • 4 nights in a 5-star hotel in Kathmandu (single room, bed and breakfast basis)

  • Welcome dinner at a tourist-standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Dream Himalaya Adventures staff

  • Assistance with cargo clearance in Nepal’s customs (clearance costs not included)

  • Expedition royalty and climbing permit from the Nepal Government for Mt. Nuptse

  • Sagarmatha National Park permit and Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit

  • Government-appointed liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation

  • Stool shipment transfer and garbage deposit fees

  • Medical and emergency rescue insurance for Nepalese staff

  • Trekking and climbing maps

  • One Dream Himalaya Adventures duffle bag per member

  • Domestic flights: Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu

  • Transport of expedition equipment for members and staff from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and to base camp (by porters/yaks), and return

  • Up to 60 kg personal baggage allowance per member during the trek

  • Three meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), including tea/coffee/hot water, during the trek with shared accommodation in lodges/teahouses

  • Three meals a day with tea, coffee, juice, soft drinks, fresh vegetables, meat, and fruits at base camp

  • Comfortable box tent for each member at base camp

  • Dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, and shower tent at base camp

  • Porters for personal gear to and from base camp

  • Experienced base camp cook and kitchen helpers

  • Daily wages, salary, equipment, food, and clothing for Nepalese staff and porters

  • One veteran licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1:1 ratio)

  • Assistance from Sherpas in carrying gear to high camps

  • Salary, equipment, food, and clothing for climbing Sherpas

  • High altitude tents, cooking gas, cooking pots, and food for Camps I, II, III, and IV

  • Cook, kitchen, and dining tents in Camp I and II

  • Group climbing gear including fixed and dynamic ropes

  • Base camp setup including tents, foam mattress, pillow, tables, chairs, and cooking gear

  • Heater in dining and necessary tents at base camp

  • Solar panel and generator at base camp for lighting and charging devices

  • Bakery and bar at base camp

  • Oxygen, mask, and regulator training at base camp

  • Route fixing by experienced Sherpas (no extra charge)

  • Satellite phone for emergency communication (personal use subject to charge)

  • Walkie-talkies for communication from mountain to base camp

  • Satellite phone and walkie-talkie permits for members and staff

  • Internet service (1 Mbps) at base camp (subject to charge)

  • Regular weather forecast reports from Meteotest, Switzerland

  • Comprehensive medical kit for members and staff

  • Emergency oxygen bottles at base camp (charged separately if used)

  • Emergency Summit Oxygen mask and regulator at base camp (charged separately if used)

  • Nuptse climbing certificate issued by the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation

  • Souvenir at the end of the expedition

What's not included

  • International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu)
  • Nepalese visa fee ($125 USD for 90 days)
  • Lunch and dinner during the stay in Kathmandu, and in case of early return from trekking or expedition than scheduled
  • Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu due to early arrival, late departure, early return from trekking/expedition, or domestic flight cancellation
  • Insurance covering medical treatment, high-altitude evacuation, trip cancellation/interruption, rescue, repatriation (mandatory – must send a copy before arrival)
  • Personal expenses including telephone calls, internet, toiletries, battery recharge, hot showers, bottled/mineral water, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and alcoholic beverages (during trek and in Kathmandu; soft drinks are provided at base camp)
  • Personal climbing equipment including clothing, packing items, bags, personal medical kit, and all types of personal trekking/climbing gear
  • Toiletries such as soap, shampoo, toilet paper, tissue, toothpaste, and personal hygiene items
  • Special filming, camera, and drone permit fees
  • Internet service during the trek (subject to charge, not included in the package)
  • Summit bonus for each climbing Sherpa (minimum $1200 USD)
  • Tips: Minimum $200 USD per member to be distributed among porters, guides, and other staff, and $350 USD for base camp and high camp staff
  • Any additional services or activities not mentioned in the itinerary or in the “Cost Includes” section

Frequently Asked Questions about Nuptse Expedition - 46 Days

1. What is the best season for the Nuptse Expedition?

The ideal seasons are spring (April to early June) and autumn (September to early November) when weather conditions are relatively stable and visibility is excellent.

2. What is the altitude of Mount Nuptse?

Mount Nuptse stands at 7,861 meters (25,791 ft) and is part of the Everest massif.

3. How difficult is the Nuptse Expedition?

The climb is considered technically demanding, suitable for experienced climbers who are familiar with steep snow, ice, and mixed terrain. Previous 7,000m+ or 8,000m+ climbing experience is highly recommended.

4. How long is the entire expedition?

The full expedition typically takes around 35–40 days, including trekking, acclimatization, and summit attempts.

5. What permits are required, and are they included?

Permits include the Nuptse climbing permit, Sagarmatha National Park entry, Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality fee, and SPCC Icefall fee. Yes, all required permits are included in the cost includes section.

6. Will there be a climbing Sherpa for each member?

Yes, 1 government-licensed and experienced climbing Sherpa is assigned per member, from base camp to summit.

7. Is oxygen provided during the expedition?

Supplemental oxygen bottles and masks will be available at base camp for emergencies. For personal use during the summit, oxygen sets are available at an additional cost.

8. What is the accommodation like during the trip?

* In Kathmandu: 5-star hotel on a bed and breakfast plan.
* During the trek: Lodges/tea houses on a shared basis.
* At Base Camp: Individual box tents with full base camp logistics (dining, kitchen, toilet, and shower tents).
* High Camps: Members share high-altitude tents (2 per tent).

9. How do we get to base camp?

You will fly from Kathmandu to Lukla, followed by trekking through the Khumbu Valley to reach Nuptse Base Camp.

10. What kind of meals are provided?

Three meals daily are provided during the trek and expedition—nutritious and hygienic meals, with tea/coffee, soft drinks, and fresh fruits, vegetables, and meat regularly delivered to base camp via helicopter support.

11. What happens in case of altitude sickness or emergencies?

Dream Himalayas provides 24/7 emergency evacuation support and medical insurance for Nepalese staff. Members must carry personal insurance covering high-altitude evacuation and medical emergencies.

12. Can I charge my devices during the expedition?

Yes, solar panels and generators are available at base camp for charging batteries, phones, and laptops.

13. Are communication facilities available during the climb?

Yes, satellite phones and walkie-talkies are provided for communication between base camp and high camps. Internet is available at base camp (with an extra charge).

14. What personal gear do I need to bring?

You need to bring all personal climbing gear, including clothing, boots, harness, crampons, ice axe, sleeping bag, and personal toiletries. A complete gear list is provided upon booking.

15. Are there any hidden or additional costs?

All major costs are covered, but tips, summit bonus for Sherpa, personal gear, alcoholic drinks, internet, and oxygen for personal use are not included.

Dream Himalayas Illustration